Vienna, Austria

Kim: One of my favorite things about Vienna, other than the abundance of concert halls and theatres, is the amazing architecture. The buildings were all so ornate. Even simple apartments buildings had statues on top and intricately carved walls and window frames. The Vienna Opera House, or Staatsoper, was beautiful with its glimmering chandeliers and other tasteful décor. We learned that only one wing survived after the bombing of WWII. So sad. We toured the Hofburg Palace, the first residence of the Hapsburg family (used from the 13th century to 1913). The Imperial Apartments were definitely impressive. We spent part of an afternoon walking through luxurious royal bedrooms, drawing rooms, conference rooms, dining rooms, etc. We also walked through the collection of silver, dinnerware, etc. Crazy how many place settings are needed for dinner in a palace.
One night we attended a concert at the Imperial Winter Palace, Festsaal, (part of the Hofburg Palace). Music from Mozart and Strauss was performed by the Wiener Hofburg Orchestra. We sat by an older friendly Australian couple who talked to us about family history and Australian politics. We got to know them pretty well throughout the concert and by the end of the night we mentioned, “well if you’re ever in Arizona feel free to stop by and say hi.” He responded, “Be careful what you say. The last time a couple said that we ended up flying to Washington for their son’s wedding.” We laughed and said, “Ah. No problem. We’ll let you know when we have a kid and you can come for the blessing.” Ha-ha. J So if at our baby’s blessing someday you see a random Australian couple sitting in the back, go up and say hi. :o)

We saw a few statues in one square that are part of “The Monument Against War and Fascism.” This split white monument, The Gates of Violence, remembers victims of all wars and violence, including the Nazi rule of Austria. On the monument we saw a montage of wartime images: clubs and WWI gas masks, a dying woman birthing a future soldier, and chained slave laborers sitting on a slab of granite cut from the infamous quarry of Mauthausen Concentration Camp. The hunched over figure on the ground symbolizes a Jew forced to scrub anti-Nazi graffiti off the street with a tooth brush. The last one is a monument with the Austrian human rights etched into it. This monument marks the spot where several hundred people were buried alive when the cellar they were hiding in was demolished during a WWII bombing attack. Quite a message.

We walked down the street called Karntner Strasse where we bought some English paperbacks from a bookstore called Frick. We found that a somewhat comical name for a bookstore. This shop-lined street was once the street Crusaders marched down as they headed off for the Holy Land in the 12th century. In the Middle Ages, people figured plagues were punishments from God, so it was common for survivors to bribe or thank God with a monument, thus the plague monument or the Trinity Column. This statue shows Emperor Leopold with Faith below him tossing an old naked woman-symbolizing the plague-into the abyss.

St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom) is a massive Gothic needle in the middle of the city. It was under construction while we were there (but what cathedral wasn’t on our trip) but we could still see the crazy cool gothic architecture exhibited on its inside and outside.

The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy, the much appreciated conqueror of the Ottomans, but is now one of Vienna’s art galleries . While we didn’t tour the inside, we enjoyed the sweeping views of the city and the Baroque gardens around the palace.

We didn’t see as much as we wanted to in Vienna due to lack of time and a rainy day, but that just gives us an excuse to go back. :)

Darren: Vienna was great, but way too much to see and do for one trip, it’s true. I really think at this point of our journey we needed a bit of a breather. We stayed in one rainy day and watched some movies on our computer and made burritos.

But once back outside, I was impressed as well with the buildings in Vienna. So majestic! I think my favorite spot in Vienna was The Heroes’ Square. It’s just outside the Hofburg Palace and right where we went to the concert and met our Australian friends. From the square you can see the Palace (obviously) up close, and horse-drawn carriages passing by on cobblestone streets. In the distance you can see the massive gothic City Hall. And in another direction you can see two large museums across the street, both were great examples of the architecture we’ve already raved about. Just a great spot, ya know?

Other things I remember about Vienna was the amazing tour inside of the Opera House and getting to see backstage. We also got some awesome cake one day and ate a piece or two in the square on a bench. More shameful than that was when we decided to buy a Vienna sized hotdog to share. Can’t remember which we got but it was really good. There are little street vendors that sell them and have at least 5 different kinds. We’d read a little about them in advance to avoid anything really nasty.

Kim: Admittedly, the hot dog was pretty good, although I was a little scared to eat it from a street vendor. To try and counteract the effects, I talked Darren into trying some banana milk. He sure did like it :) ha-ha

P.S. Click HERE for a look at our cute apartment (#3). I loved the red walls and sink in the bathroom. The faucet was a round disk that once turned on created a waterfall into the sink. So cool!

Pics: Vienna, Austria




Hallstatt, Austria

Kim: Hallstatt is a small town in the Salzkammergut Lake District area between Salzburg and Vienna. Three thousand years ago it was the salt-mining capital of Europe. Today its a great place to relax and enjoy the scenery, which is exactly what we did. We spent one day hiking and touring giant ice caves in the Dachstein mountains and one day swimming in the freezing, glacier-water lake. The ice caves were really “cool.” The tour was a one hour trek through an icy, eerie, underground world with temperatures just above freezing. It was really cool to see the crazy ice formations underground. Apparently they are continuing to get larger and deeper every year. One formation we saw was more than 29.5 feet tall. Its like Kartchner Caverns but frozen. Crazy! The ice crystals all over the ceiling were really pretty. Especially when the tour guide would shine his flashlight on them. The ice just seemed to glow. I’m really glad we decided to wear pants and bring sweaters along because although it was a hot summer day outside, it was freezing inside.

The next day we had a picnic at a park and went swimming in the lake (again, freezing). But it was really hot outside so it felt pretty good.

Hallstatt was amazing. So incredibly beautiful. A little town right on the edge of a pretty lake. Doesn’t get much better than that.

Darren: I know I probably say this too much, but Hallstatt really was one of my favorite places on the trip. The place we stayed was a short walk up a path that followed a crystal clear creek. Our place sat in a little valley between two huge mountains. We had a great view from our room’s balcony and I spent quite a while out there reading and just listening to the sounds of the rolling creek water, the breeze and a couple of really funny birds that sounded like they were whistling at each other. In addition to that, we ate lakeside every night and enjoyed walking around a small picturesque town every evening.

The ice caves were amazing and much grander than the “ice-cave” we used to take friends to up on Mt. Graham. It was pretty shocking how cold it got the deeper we went down. Once we got back outside we had a picnic along the trail and then walked out to a lookout point. Kim was curious enough to look into a metal container that had a chain hanging out from it part way. Turned out to be a box for a set of binoculars, good find babe! We took a look out across the valley and the lake far below. Nice view!

Jumping into the lake was great. We also considered it our 4th of July celebration. It was hot outside but still took some courage to get into that water. I was proud of Kim for getting in with me. There was a make-shift wooden diving board that someone had constructed off one edge of the lake. It looked like a plank. We jumped off of it together…I think we counted to “three“…I may have pulled her in on “two.” Either way it was fun, right sweetie? J

Pics: Hallstatt, Austria

Salzburg, Austria

Kim: Just for a bit of history, Salzburg was the birthplace of Joseph Mohr, who wrote the words to Silent Night. This popular Christmas carol was composed and first sung in the village of Oberndorf, just outside of Salzburg, in 1818. This is where the oldest nunnery in the German speaking world (established in 712) is located. The real Maria from The Sound of Music taught in this nunnery school.

Darren: Our arrival in Salzburg included many of the things we've come to expect on a "travel day." We rode a train, did some laundry, checked in to a new place, walked to the nearest grocery store and then showered and collapsed. The lady who rented us the place was very helpful although we spoke alot by hand gestures as her English wasn't the greatest and Kim and my German is extremely lacking. She was very kind though and even helped us find the Church's address on a local map to show us where we'd be going the next day.

The old town is beautiful. The Salzach River runs through town and it's lined with grassy riverbanks, trees and bike paths. The Cathedral was amazing and decorated inside with extremely detailed white wood. We rode the funicular up the hill one day to tour the fortress that sits overlooking the city. Great views from the top.

We attended a Mozart dinner theatre one night and met some really neat people at our table. Three of the four couples were from the states but one couple was Romanian and spoke great English. Fun conversations. The music was great and accompanied by a 3-course meal. Another night we attended a Baroque Hall concert. It was a piano/violin duo who were incredible. The music touched us both.

One day we rented bikes and rode down to Hellbrunn Castle. The ride took us along the river at first, then through some meadows and dirt rode paths. Really pretty. The palace is known for its trick fountains and we took the tour to check it out. It was really fun. The tour guide showed how the designer made the fountains thoughout the garden shoot water and catch people off guard. He got people wet and made people scream and laugh all the way through the tour. He was a fun guy and you can tell he enjoyed his job. We had a picnic in a huge park by the palace and then headed back to town. We got cleaned up and went to Mirabell Gardens and listened to a free brass band playing there. The gardens are spectacular and fun to wander through.

Kim: Salzburg was so much fun. I absolutely loved it. It had a little bit of everything I love. Music and culture, green surroundings, historic downtown, outdoor recreation, beautiful architecture and bell towers. If I haven't mentioned it already, I love bells. I have always loved them. Some of my favorite memories of this trip have been waking up to the sound of bells. So mystical.

At church on Sunday we met a couple from Utah who were traveling around Europe, ending in Belgium where the guy's parents were serving a mission. We met a woman originally from Tucson who married a German man and has been living in Germany for 13 years. It's been fun meeting so many different people on this trip and sharing stories with fellow travelers. None of us have the same story. Not all of us believe the same way. We're all from different places, yet we all have that same travelers spirit. So fun!

Later on Sunday we went for a walk around town. On a high trail that circles around the city (offering amazing views of the buildings and town below) we met a man and a woman from Salzburg. They have lived in Salzburg their entire lives and described to us what it looks like in the winter. It sounded like a fairytale. Someday around Christmas I'll definitely have to drag Darren back. They also told us about a bakery at the foot of the mountain right by a waterwheel. Apparently its the oldest bakery in town, dating back to 1150. We found it the next day and bought one of each kind (there were only 3). One was called Roggenbrot. Very heavy and dense but yummy!

The Salzburg Cathedral was really cool. The intricately carved white wood was different than the others we have seen. It was really pretty against some of the other darker furniture. Mozart was baptized here, "Amadeus" means "beloved by God". We also walked through St. Peter's Cemetery. There were many tombs and graves amidst many small gardens.We learned that in Austria, gravesites are rented, not owned. Rent bills are sent out every 10 years. If relatives don't care enough to make the payment, the remains are chucked. Another good reason to remain on good terms with family members. I told Darren if he "chucked" my remains, I'd come back to haunt him. :) On a Hollywood note, while the cemetery scene for The Sound of Music was just a set, it was inspired by this one. We also walked by the 1925 Festival Hall. This is where the nervous Captain von Trapp waited before walking onstage just before he escaped with his family.

The dinner theatre was a lot of fun. The couples we met provided very entertaining conversation. Especially the Romanian couple. He was a spinal surgeon and his wife was a doctor as well. He told us he gets 29 days of holiday (vacation) every 6 months. WHAT!? Forget 3 weeks a year, let's move to Europe!

Mirabell Gardens were so beautiful! I would love to imitate some of the designs and layouts in a garden of my own someday (but on a much smaller scale of course). The statues, arbor and stairs by the palace were used in The Sound of Music as well.

Hohensalzburg Fortress is built on a rock 400 feet above the Salzach River. It was never really used as a Fortress, since it was so foreboding that nobody actually attacked the town for a thousand years. It was surrendered to Napolean for a while though. It was fun to walk around and look at the mini-city within it's walls. It was here at their Marionette Exhibit that Darren and I posed as chickens and Sound of Music puppets.

Our bike ride along the Salzach "Salt" River was fun. So peaceful and green. It would be so fun to live in a place that offers so many bike trails. Yes Gilbert has some. But riding along a stinky canal has never been my "cup of tea." One of the first things we saw upon our arrival at Hellbrunn Castle was the famous gazebo from The Sound of Music and of course I couldn't pass on a photo op.

Salzburg was awesome! Can't wait to go back. How long is my "can't wait to return" list?? Pretty long ;o)

Pics: Salzburg, Austria

The Dolomites: Castelrotto Italy

Kim: Castelrotto was beautiful. We stayed in a cute little bed and breakfast with our own private patio overlooking the beautiful green valley below. We ate at a little diner called Bar Toni's where we ran into a young couple we had met in the Cinque Terre. Small world. We had spinaci dumplings, turkey and potatoes and salmon. Yum! It was great to have some meat and potatoes after so much bread and pasta. Our first full day in Castelrotto we took a ski lift up to the Alpe de Suisi, Europe's largest high-alpine meadow. Talk about absolutely breathtaking!! I felt like I was Heidi frolicking in the hills of Austria. Green rolling hills everywhere. Wild flowers, cows, streams, little mountain huts, farms, snow capped mountains, waterfalls. It was awesome! On our hike to Panorama Point, we were surrounded by cows and horses. We heard the cows and their bells coming down the mountain and before we knew it, they had us surrounded. I wish we could have gotten a picture of that :) After a few minutes we were able to maneuver between them and continue on our hike. Later horses came up to us digging in our pockets for food.

Darren: Oh yes, the "cattle incident." These cows were more than friendly, they were out to get us I swear! No lie, they wouldn't let us pass. They seriously "surrounded" us and then kept blocking any escape. I felt like we'd walked into a bad neighborhood and felt like we were about to get roughed up. :)
The town there was very interesting. It's history is a bit complicated but what resulted was a town where they speak both German and Italian and really recognize both languages everywhere you look. Every sign, brochure, menu and bus stop schedule had information printed in both German and Itialian. Seeing as how we were headed north to Austria next on our journey we started to learn and practice some German. Funny stuff just laughing at each other at how we sounded. Just ask Kim how to say "I want to buy two postcards, please" in German. It's hilarious. She learned it by memory and it sounded like she'd memorized it to the tune of "red rover, red rover, send whoever right over." Oh the laughs!
The hiking was great. Huge open meadows, sunny and breathtaking. The second day hike we did we followed alongside a creek and saw multiple waterfalls along the way.

Kim: The next day we went hiking again in the Alpe de Suisi. This time we went in the direction of Schlern mountain. We had a picnic in the meadow listening to a nearby stream. Our hike down took us by some beautiful waterfalls and some cool water fountains. It was a pretty long hike. By the time we got done our muscles were pretty tired and sore. It was way fun though. That night we ate at a restaurant where we tasted some bread that tasted like black licorice. Interesting but good.
We dedicated our last day in Castelrotto to a day of relaxation. We went swimming in the B&B pool, sat in the solarium, and took a nap. Perfect!

Pics: The Dolomites, Castelrotto, Italy